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OldNick
Essex,
United Kingdom
Posts: 233
Premier Member
Daytona 955i (99-01)
25 Sep 2008 14:44 |
Searching the forum has thrown up a number of lists of all the bearings, sleeves, seals etc for doing this pig of a job, but it's not clear to me whether any of them refer to a SSSA Daytona. If anyones done this job on this model (2000 if it matters) and used independant bearing suppliers, do they have the complete list of parts they could share (or point me at the right thread if it's already out there in Triumph-land somewhere?)
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J-Zeus
London,
United Kingdom
Posts: 8,194
Premier Member
Daytona 955i (99-01)
25 Sep 2008 15:24 |
Drop Rich Halford of this parish a line.....
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OldNick
Essex,
United Kingdom
Posts: 233
Premier Member
Daytona 955i (99-01)
25 Sep 2008 15:39 |
hmm, hadn't thought of that - seem to recall he has a web-page somewhere where he describes the job too....will see if I've still got the link....
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J-Zeus
London,
United Kingdom
Posts: 8,194
Premier Member
Daytona 955i (99-01)
25 Sep 2008 15:46 |
http://www.richard-halford.co.uk/chain.html
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OldNick
Essex,
United Kingdom
Posts: 233
Premier Member
Daytona 955i (99-01)
26 Sep 2008 12:34 |
actually that's the one for the rear hub stripdown (which I've also had cause to use) - a better one is this one: http://www.richard-halfor.....jor_service.htm
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Tail End Paddy
Hampshire,
United Kingdom
Posts: 189
Premier Member
Daytona T595 (97-98)
28 Sep 2008 14:00 |
Did mine on a 97 tona recently.
I used these people, and they were excellent, and the bearings were really cheep.
http://www.bikebearings.co.uk/
The Bearings for the drop and drag links were HK2020.rs
The rs bit means they have build in grease seals. Use the original seals as well, and a good load of waterproof grease, and it should stay lubed.
I re-used the seals that were in there already. Picked them out with a small screwdriver. But they can supply the seals as well.
The drop link on mine was solid. Like hit it with a hammer type solid.
The Sleeves in mine were pretty bad, and should have been replaced really. But I took some emery paper to them and smoothed them out a bit and re-used them. Probably not perfect, but i'll replace them next time.
For removing the big sleave from the swing-arm, you can use the bolt out the concentric hub (If you don't have another one lying round), keep adding spacers between it and the swing arm (I used the old bearings), tightening it up. This will eventually pull the spacer out. Bastard tight it was though. I used a 3foot extension bar on the bolt in the end. That was the bit that took the time.
Got the bearings out with a Chisel. That was easy.
A friend of mine had a made-up insertion tools which consists of a threaded bar, some nuts and some washers. Heat the link up in the oven on low before putting the bearings in, and use a bit of grease as well.
Putting things back together was simple, apart from getting the thrust-washers back in in the right place. Need another pair of hands for this ideally.
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 Earl
Hiding in the valley,
United Kingdom
Posts: 5,346
Premier Member
Daytona T595 (97-98)
28 Sep 2008 14:42 |
its a shame that your not closer mate ive got a lovely home made slide hammer which i udsed to do mine as it was bastard tight to get out. copper ease definitely the way forward.
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kevm
Amber Valley,
United Kingdom
Posts: 4,280
Premier Member
Daytona 955i (04->)
29 Sep 2008 19:31 |
Earl, I got a mate to make me an attachment for my slide hammer; it was the only thing that worked. I tried the bolt/spacers trick and it just stripped the thread off the bolt.
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Earl
Hiding in the valley,
United Kingdom
Posts: 5,346
Premier Member
Daytona T595 (97-98)
29 Sep 2008 20:27 |
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OldNick
Essex,
United Kingdom
Posts: 233
Premier Member
Daytona 955i (99-01)
30 Sep 2008 13:10 |
nice tips - sounds like the pinchbolt method is the way to go, but with a spare rather than the original just in case I strip it. Assuming the Triumph part is a rip-off price, anyone know the spec of the bolt so I can just get one from a factor?
Dumb question: once you remove the bearings (eg with a chisel) they are presumably damaged in the process - can they be inspected without removal? To be honest i don't have the experience to know if what I'm looking at is good or knackered, so guess I'll just buy a new set onthe assumption that they'll need changing....
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Earl
Hiding in the valley,
United Kingdom
Posts: 5,346
Premier Member
Daytona T595 (97-98)
30 Sep 2008 21:20 |
m14 x 1.25 iirc, its a fine thread.
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Tail End Paddy
Hampshire,
United Kingdom
Posts: 189
Premier Member
Daytona T595 (97-98)
01 Oct 2008 12:43 |
If using the pinch-bolt make sure you don't wind it all the way in. The thread in the sleeve is quite alot shorter than the bolt, so winding it in, the bolt tries to cut it's own thread.
Yes, removing the bearing completely buggers it.
You can inspect it once you have the Sleaves removed. In which case, you may as well replace them.
The needles in it will be a brown-rusty colour, and they wont move. If they are nice-shiny metal colour with nice yellow grease on, they are ok (no chance).
Or in my case, the needles just fell out onto the floor as soon as the sleeve was removed! Except for one of them was stuck so well to the sleeve, that it pulled out of the drop-link as I was removing the sleeve from the swing-arm. I had to use an angle-grinder to get it off.
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OldNick
Essex,
United Kingdom
Posts: 233
Premier Member
Daytona 955i (99-01)
01 Oct 2008 13:05 |
Cheers all. Another question - the bearing that attaches the swing arm to the frame, does this usually need doing too? in which case I need a special tool (and adaptors for my Abba stand) to remove it?
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